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Welcome to the Secondary Steering Stabilizer install guide.

KOR-2032 / KOR-2072 / KOR-2082 / KOR-2092

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Difficulty Level; Scale of 1 to 5

Difficulty Level

Approximate time to complete

REQUIRED TOOLS
  • 1/2″ drill bit
  • Drill
  • Channel Lock pliers
  • Socket set
  • An assistant
  • (Locktite if you wish)
INSTALLATION STEPS
You can use this kit to add a second steering stabilizer to your WJ if you…
 
1) Have larger-than-stock wheels and tires (more rotational mass needs more dampening)…and/or
2) Have an incurable problem with Death Wobble that you’ve not been able to resolve with new suspension components and bushings…and/or
3) If you’d like to move the single steering stabilizer to a location further upward, out of the rocks and away from damage to your investment. 
 
First, inspect all the parts and visualize how the install will go. In the hardware kit, you should have 2 clamps (depending on the version you ordered, you may have one larger and one smaller clamp, or two equal clamps), two bolts, two nuts, two lock washers, four flat washers, two 5/8″ spacer nuts, and a sleeve.
 
Installation order is: Bolt, flat washer, shock loop, flat washer, 5/8″ spacer nut, clamp, lock washer, nut.
 
The sleeve needs to be pushed into the end of the stabilizer that does not have one. The clamps need to have it’s square holes drilled out to 1/2″ using your drill and bit. If you have the factory WJ Track Bar, place the SMALLER clamp around the Track Bar.  If you have the upgraded Track Bar version, then both clamps will be the same size).  You might also want to use some lock-tite or similar product to the threads during install.
 
Install Instructions: Using the included clamps and a pair of Channel Lock pliers, pry the clamp mouth apart and slide one over the drag link and one over the track bar. Alternately, you can unthread the ends of both bars and slide them over the bar without spreading them. Use the enclosed hardware to clamp it down, similar to the WJ primary stabilizer hardware kit (KOR-1012), or as I discussed above. I’d like to see the stabilizer as close to parallel with the drag link as possible, so flip the clamps either over the top, under the bottom, or one up and one down to achieve the right angle of the stabilizer, depending on the amount of lift on your rig. 
 
BE EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS that you mount the stabilizer so that it will clear all of the moving parts, so after you have it in position, tighten it down loosely, and have your assistant SLOWLY move the steering wheel back and forth from lock to lock, assuring that you don’t over compress or extend the stabilizer, and that your hardware doesn’t hit anything. 
 
The foolproof way to locate the stabilizer left to right is to have the tires turned all the way to the right, compress the stabilizer all the way, and then draw the stabilizer out 1/2″ and mount it in that location. FYI, the stroke on the WJ is offset… 3.5″ to the right and 2-5/8″ to the left, so don’t mount the stabilizer in the center of it’s stroke or you will bottom it out when turning left. 
 
Make sure to have your assistant hold the steering wheel all the way or you will get an incorrect starting spot, rather than turning off the engine and allowing the wheels to move after the engine is shut down. 
 
You should get a measurement of around 15.75″ +/- .25″ when the wheels are straight ahead. 
 
Before you tighten everything down, check for clearance one more time, and to assure that you don’t have the stabilizer rotated too far upward or downward by having your assistant slowly turn the wheel leftward and rightward to assure that it’s not hitting anything, and you’re good to go. Tighten it down on both ends, and enjoy your MUCH more DW-resistant steering, or your increased ground clearance if you purchased it to get the factory one up and out of the way of rocks. 
 
You might also want to use some lock-tite or similar product. 
 
VERY IMPORTANT!!! Inspect the location of the stabilizer housing versus the bottom of the track bar mount. When you turn the wheels to the right, will it hit? Have someone turn the steering wheel slowly to the right as you watch for clearance. Assure that you have at least 1/4″ clearance…and 1/2″ would be even better, as when you articulate, the clearance changes. 
 
TRIPLE CHECK the clearance by moving the steering wheel in both directions before you leave the driveway!!! Your power steering gear will EASILY puncture a hole in the stabilizer if you have it rotated too high!!!
 
That’s it.  Enjoy the lessened “jerking” back and forth in your steering wheel, when you run over imperfections in the road or on the trail.  
 
We appreciate your business!
 
Kevin and the entire KOR krew

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